The picture itself is 15 years old.
Remember it like it happened yesterday.
This place in Indonesia is famous for its rogue waves. A rogue wave, or “Roguey” in surfing vernacular, is a massive wave that break 100 m out the back and steam rolls over everything and everyone. The boats that drop you in the surf sit 200 m out the back, nose to the horizon. I always wondered why as I had never seen a rogue wave.
Then mother nature delivers this.
It must have broken 50 metres out beyond the normal spot. Everyone was paddling and getting ready to duck dive. As that was happening I looked to my left and saw this.
A surfers dream. The perfect wave.
I sat on my board and juggled the cheap camera that was strapped to my arm. The other surfers at this stage had disappeared underwater, kicking for the bottom.
The photo doesn't give credit to how close the wave is. Or how big it is. I pressed the shutter, hoping it was focused, and rolled off my board as the wave exploded.
I didn't even get a decent breath.
This picture is the product of me deciding to take in the scene that was too good to miss.
Good choice.
But what about other scenes that I missed because I was busy? When should I stop and take in the moment rather than rush by? Somewhere this week there is going to be one.
Probably several.
It doesn’t take much to appreciate something. All you do is stop and look on as an observer. The appreciation of the moment is not earth moving at first. It takes time to immerse yourself in the moment.
The way to start … is to stop.
Now.
