Not sure if this story fits this category, but I used to surf a lot. Was never great at it but loved escaping.
I was always quite careful, so only really surfed beach breaks or deep reefs.
Anyway, the best wave of my life was due to my anxiety/depression. I was surfing by myself, which is rare to begin with but just needed to get away and my friend wasn't available, and the waves were bigger than I'd usually get amongst. I went to a secluded point break that has a rock reef under it and a sand bowl. I'd normally stick to the sand but my head space was such that I really didn't care if I hurt myself, so I went right out the back.
I still to this day vividly remember taking off on the biggest wave I'd ever ridden, still is, and looking down to see the water was shallow enough that the rocks were visible. Makes me nervous thinking about that part still today but I proceeded to get up and run down the line and even did a couple of turns. Road it all the way into the beach and went home.
I still dream of that wave, quite literally bring it to mind when I want to relax into sleep.
Fiatlux - I completely feel your mood today and cannot wait to get home. Days like today I could easily give it all away for something much simpler.
RX - Glad to hear you are coming out the other side of it. I feel a little lighter myself today, albeit not light enough for a sing 🤣
