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Beyond Blue Home Improvement Thread

geoff
Champion Alumni
Champion Alumni
Hi everyone. I'm Geoff and have been a dedicated Volunteer on the forums for 13 years. I am proud to have stopped some of the stigmas that are associated with mental health as well as doing my best to help others too

Before my health went south I was a builder in all aspects of home construction and renovation. If you don't have a handyman around I hope I can offer you some tips that may be of help. I have had many years of experience in home renovation and will do my best to help you out if you are stuck and need some advice

I hope my experience may be of help to the people on Beyond Blue and make their life a little bit better. Even if you need help with the most basic painting job or putting up a shelf I can help there too with some tips

I will do my best to get back to anyone that has a question when I can as this is social yet important thread

Geoff
1,301 Replies 1,301

Mathy
Community Member

How to minimise paintbrush cleaning

Acrylic Paints

Otherwise known as water “wash up”. You can keep a paintbrush going for a considerable period of time by putting it in one of those plastic fruit and beg bags you get from the supermarket for, you guessed it, fruit and veg! Put the brush in there and squish the air out. I’ve just re-started a painting job I started about 4 months ago, and the brush is good to go. NOTE - store brush in cool place, I live in Adelaide, so our winters are cool, the brush was kept in my laundry.

When painting a room or two, I never wash a roller out. Use the same plastic bag as mentioned above, make sure you exclude the air, and it will be good to go. Because of water restrictions in Adelaide a few years ago, I have ceased washing roller covers out - firstly, it’s a waste of water and secondly, it’s not good to wash that paint down the drain. I use a Unipro “pink” cover, they’re about $3 each (in a pack of 3) do a reasonable job. When I’ve finished painting, I dry them out, then they get disposed of in hard refuse. At $3 per paint job, it’s cheaper to dispose of them.

Oil Based Paints

You can store a paint brush with oil based paint on it, indefinitely in the freezer, wrapped in several layers of plastic. Oil based paint will not dry when cold. Brushes will last for ever, it all depends upon your tolerance of smelly paint brushes in your freezer 🙂 Same applies to roller covers.

Paint Disposal

Early last year, I downsized and moved. I had 40 tins of left over paint from various renovation projects spanning 20 years OMG! To dispose of paint in an environmentally sensitive manner it needs to be dried out. THE best product on the market is the cheap as chips Black and Gold Kitty Litter. Takes a bit of experimenting as to how much to use, but basically you want to dry the paint out so you can harden it, quickly. What you want to end up with is an empty tin and a mound of dried paint that you can wrap up in newspaper, so it can go into you general waste bin. This also work with oil based paint but you need to spread it out to dry and let the solvents evaporate off.

cheers M 🙂


hi Dory, I understand your problem and a suggestion, get a quote from a glazier to hold the window with suction cups and either remove whole window or see if they can cut the window in half while it's still in the window frame, it will probably need to be supported when it's cut, so build a frame with timber to the height you want your kitchen level to be.
As soon as it's cut, if it's done while in the frame (as they can cut a hole in a window so a fan can be installed), push the timber frame you have made under it straight away, the glazier may have a better idea, then this is the beginning of your new kitchen.
You can plaster the frame on the inside to make it mouse proof, then build the kitchen, on the outside, you can either use hardiplank to seal it up or get a brickie to finish it off.
The glazier may want to remove the whole window which would be better because then you can start your kitchen at the right height and they can then come back and install the half window, this is probably the best way, it would be easier for you and give you time to get things going.
If the window has been silicone in the window might break that's a chance you have to take. Geoff.

blondguy
Champion Alumni
Champion Alumni

Hi Geoff

I know that internet reviews (most of them) are from people that have a problem with the product so I am careful what I read....where renovations are concerned...

I have been told that British Paints is made in the same facility as Dulux. Its so confusing...

In a nutshell if you had to paint your walls would you use Dulux? Also do think think that Mitre10's 'Accent' branded paint is any good?.....I know its cheap but I dont want to take the risk ( I think its British Paints)

(If you want a laugh have a look at Dulux under product reviews...everyone on the forums are whinging about it)

Thanks again for your help....Not urgent.....only when you have the time

My Best

Paul

geoff
Champion Alumni
Champion Alumni
hi Paul, Dulux does make British Paints and Mitre 10 'Accent' is the same as British paints, all K-Mart paint is made by Dulux but not the same quality, same as other big stores who sold paint weren't the 100% quality, that's why they were cheap.
When I used to paint houses/ flats I would go to my paint dealer and buy the tradesmen paint made by Solver, because it was slightly cheaper, but I also used that paint for my own home, however for the outside I used Solaguard, but Bunnings don't sell that anymore, there was some disagreement in management, but my paint store sold it and got 10% off all paints.
Any paint, except those cheap brands, will be OK as long as the preparation is done, that's the hard part.
There has been an acrylic paint that can replace painting in enamel, it dries just as hard as enamel to use on window sills, doors, jambs so easier to clean up with.
Haymes is the premium product but if you live by yourself it maybe going overboard price wise, Dulux wash and wear is good, and Mitre 10 Accent is made by Wattyl, although who knows these days one company buys someone out and then take over by another company.
If you have a local paint shop they may have specials on all different products, just be aware of them trying to sell you something just to clean out their old stocks, they can be like car salesmen.
All you want is to have a paint where you can wipe food marks off without leaving a definite mark, but most paints do this anyway.
If you have a fan in your bathroom then you can use an acrylic paint, and in old houses the kitchen, laundry would be painted in enamel, so it needs to be washed down using 'tricleanium', much better than sugar soap, and there is an acrylic paint to paint over enamel walls in preparation for using acrylic paint.

blondguy
Champion Alumni
Champion Alumni

Hi Geoff (and Mathy) for the super helpful advice

I may stick to Dulux after what you mentioned. I noticed you mentioned Haymes paints which are the bee's knees of paints and their price bracket too. This is my 27th year in my home since it was built in 1990. It was painted with Berger paint back then and I think the gas heating has made it yukky off yellow color since.

I appreciate the info on the moist bathroom area. I will make sure that I use an acrylic paint as my ceiling has just started peel a little in the last couple of years

Thanks Geoff (and to Mathy for the great tips on brushes and roller info!! ) You have just saved me a ton of water and grief too 🙂

Paul

Ha , that's interesting Geoff , didn't know that. l love brittish stuff and naturally thought the paint was their's , but l do like the stuff whoever makes it.l've sprayed it a lot as well and it covers very well l always found., nice gloss too. Dulux l always found a bit thin and didn't cover as well.

l'd love to talk to you one day about the house painting business , l did a lot of casual painting earlier , also some sign writing old school . But at the moment l'm considering a change and better money and maybe going back to house painting was one thing l was thinking about as l always like it.

Tackled my ride on again this arvo , so close l can feel it. Hasn't been going for a few mths , only got one more small thing to chuck on , pertrol hose, anddddd she should run , again. Eeeehhhh haaaaa,,, no more pushy , well l'm hoping anyways. She's been a great old girl , been mowing my 1 ac place, no mean feet that stuff gets 6ft high , for 10 yrs and never failed me. so she was due for some tlc anyway.

Yep l did do it a few times at 6ft high , poor mower didnt like it but she did it. l'd do a few laps first and flatten it down , then turn the blades on and she'd hack her way through with it flattened out.

Then l discovered the old guy cross road did slashing so if it gets away from me now l call him. Does the whole thing , nature strip too , another 1/2 ac, 50bucks.

Anyway it's rented out now so l don't have to go over at the moment he looks after it. But my place here has huge nature strips too, probly 2 house blocks of extra mowing , plus around the yards too , thick thick stuff that's back 4days after you mowed it anyway.. So it's gonna be great to get the ride on back in action.

Yeah agree too Haymes is a beautiful paint , too dear for me though.

l use to use the prism paint factory up the road Geoff , their stuff was half the price of anything else . quality was ok , prices were great .

Hi Randomx/Geoff

I hear you about the price of Haymes paints.....ouch! Dulux is expensive enough as it is...for me anyway..

Geoff/Randomx...I only have a basic knowledge about renovations....I have seen ceramic tiles being painted with 2pac polyurethane....spray gun.....What are you thoughts about spraying bathroom tiles to avoid removing them and paying huge dollars for a glass splashback or a re-tile?

My Best.. Paul

Mathy
Community Member

Guys, I’d like to clarify the British Paints situation. I work for Bunnings, and BP has now become “our” brand. It is manufactured by Dulux, and it is my understanding that it works like this.

When Dulux upgrade the paint technology in the Dulux brand, then the “old” technology goes into BP, and their other second tier brands, such as “Accent”.

I’ve been observing this process for 10 years. In that time, Weathershield has gone to a “life of house” warranty, and BP 4 Seasons has gone to 25 years, which used to be the old Weathershield warranty.

Can’t comment on other brands 🙂

blondguy
Champion Alumni
Champion Alumni

Excuse me for hijacking your thread Geoff...Mathy has really brought first hand knowledge here...

I just wanted to thank Mathy for the experience on the paint (and for the tips above that were offered by Mathy re rollers and brush info too!)

Thanks Mathy 🙂

Paul